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Seiko Serial Number Model

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Seiko Serial Number Model Number
Seiko Serial Id
Seiko Watch Models Identification
We love a chase dont we? Watch enthusiasts I mean. The thrill of opening the next box or clicking the next link to see if it might be hiding something different. Something special. Something only we have discovered. Tales of $25 Rolex watches bought at the local thrift shop or found at the bottom of a battered box of worthless non-runners at an estate sale reverberate through our mind, urging just one more search, one more click deep into the early hours of the morning.
Seikos have the date of manufacture written into the serial number which is engraved on the back of the watch also the movement-model numbers are also engraved onto the case back.
Seiko has NEVER used as many as 8 digits in the serial number for its timepieces made after April 1971, but adhered to their standard 6-digit numbering system to this very day. The fact that the 6319-7040 diver was imprinted with an 8-digit serial number is the only proof you need that this watch is hardly controversial, but an outright fake.
Some serial numbers of the earliest Seiko 6139s indicate a production date of March 1969 or even as early as February 1969, but it is unclear if these are samples or were the first ones intended for the Japanese market.
The Seiko serial number database Details of the Seiko movement database Below is live information about the current Seiko movement database, it is updated regularly (scroll to the bottom to see last updated date).
Imagine if I could just find that Rolex Sub, you know? With that dial that I really dig but that was also made in the year or even the month of my birth. How cool would that be?
Seiko Watch Corporation has been designing and manufacturing quality watches since 1881. Each Seiko watch has a unique serial number that can be used to identify the specific series, model and year of the watch. Because Seiko produces a variety of designs, styles and brands, the serial number becomes the main identification tag for each product.
How much easier would it be to justify the cost of a birth-year watch. Imagine the gravitas such a watch would have as a jewel in ones collection. The search for birth year watches provides another reason as if any was necessary to search for more cool vintage watches. Dating Vintage Seikos
Dating vintage watches is often complicated and sometimes requires significant deductive powers combined with a deep knowledge of the brand. There is one brand, however, that makes identifying birth year vintage watches simple. That brand is Seiko.
On the back of every Seiko watch is a serial number that can be used to date the year of production of the watch. The first digit of the serial number is the year of the decade in which the watch was built. So a watch made in 1971, will have a serial number that starts with 1. A watch made in 1983 will have a serial number that starts with 3. The serial number does not indicate the decade in which the watch was made, but a guide like the one you are reading can help with that by indicating the years in which various models were available.
Dating vintage watches is often complicated and sometimes requires significant deductive powers combined with a deep knowledge of the brand.
The second digit of a Seikos serial number specifies the month of manufacture, allowing the determined collector to find his or her birth month watch. The 12 months are denoted by 1-9 for January to September, 0 for October, N for November and D for December. The remaining numbers of the serial number (4 or 5 depending on model) simply form an incremental counter that we dont need to be concerned with.
So, what can we tell from a 60s Seiko dress watch with serial number 628970? We can infer that it was manufactured in February 1966. And what about a 1970s Seiko Sports diver with serial number 3N4823? We know that it was made in November 1973.
Seiko models were typically manufactured for 5 to 10 years after introduction, so if a watch is described herein for a year before your own birth year, the chances are that with a little searching you will find the same watch but for a later year. The following list is just a small sample of models introduced each year, noting along the way, the more important releases.
The 12 months are denoted by 1-9 for January to September, 0 for October, N for November and D for December. 1960
For those born in 1960, Seiko were still making a number of three-hand dress models carried over from the 1950s, for example, the Seiko Marvel, Seiko Crown, Seiko Chronos and Seiko Champion. These designs are all typified by round cases, simple lugs and brushed silver dials with silver or gold applied indices. Good examples of each can easily be found below $500. All are manually wound and easily serviced due to their relative simplicity and similarity with established, contemporary Swiss technology.
While Seiko would become associated predominantly with stainless steel cases, in 1960 many were still gold- or even chrome-plated, so check the plating is in good shape before buying it often deteriorates and wears away. For something special, search out the rare Seiko Goldfeather made from 1960 to 1966. It has an extremely thin movement at 2.95mm which was not much thicker than Piagets 12P movement: also introduced in 1960, and at 2.3mm, was the worlds thinnest at the time.
Seiko introduced two model lines in 1960 and would go on to form a large part of their catalogue for the rest of the decade. They were the Seikomatic and Sportsmatic lines of watches. Both provided waterproof cases and automatic winding via Seikos innovative magic lever system. This was first seen in 1959 on the Seiko Gyro Marvel and has been a feature of automatic Seiko watches ever since. We will revisit both Seikomatic and Sportsmatic later in the decade.
No mention of 1960 would be complete without mentioning the first Grand Seiko, aka the 3180, derived from the earlier Seiko Crown and launched in December that year.
No mention of 1960 would be complete without mentioning the first Grand Seiko, aka the 3180, derived from the earlier Seiko Crown and launched in December that year. It contained Seikos caliber 57, variations of which powered a number watches during the 1960s. For someone looking for a birth year watch with significant horological history, locating the first Grand Seiko would be a worthy challenge. Finding a 1960 example might be hard due to the December launch, but 1961 should be more straightforward. Expect to pay around $3000 and up for a good, serviced example. 1961
1961 saw the Daini factory launch King Seiko as its own high end watch model line in response to Grand Seiko. Derived from the Seiko Chronos, Daini intended the luanch model (Ref. J14102) to compete with contemporary Swiss watches in quality as well as rivaling neighboring Suwas own Grand Seiko line. As with many early sixties Seikos, the serial number is on the inside of the case back rather than the outside, but the method of dating the watch remains the same as described earlier. Examples can be routinely found for both late 1961 and all of 1962. You can expect to pay between $500 and $800 for a good example, but prices of King Seiko are starting to rise across the board.
While the first King Seiko is a solid choice for 1961, this was also the first year Seiko released dedicated waterproof sports watches. I refrain from calling them dive watches since they were not meant to go particularly deep, nor had they any sort of dive rating. The 50m Seikomatic SilverWave J12082 released in 1961 was the first step on the long road to the modern day SKX 200 m dive watch every Seiko enthusiast knows today. The SilverWave does little to hide its dress watch lineage with its glitzy brushed dial and elegantly polished markers.
A black inner rotating bezel (a first for Seiko with this watch) takes care of recording elapsed time, while still looking as smart as a finely tailored tuxedo at dinner. A large crown without guards is positioned at 4 oclock conceiving the design DNA for the next 50 years of Seiko divers. Despite its size, the crown does not screw down. The J12082 contains one more design feature that would also continue to project forwards through the decades: the tsunami case back engraving that debuted with this watch and features on every Seiko dive watch made since. Expect to pay around $1200 for a good example in 2020. 1962
1962 saw the introduction of the Seiko Alpinist, model number J13049, based on the existing Seiko Champion 850. This is another early sports watch that simply cannot disguise its dressy roots. Like the 50m SilverWave before it, the 850 Alpinist sports a formal black outer border to its to dial that lends it a very classy look.
This watch would definitely not look out of place at a black-tie dinner at the Explorers Club in New York City where it would slip discretely under the cuff. The dial is scribed with fine hourly radial lines reminiscent of the points of a compass dial, evoking a further sense of adventure.
The Alpinist was created by Seiko to appeal to the amateur mountaineers who were increasingly exploring Japans mountainous interior countryside and needed a robust watch with some water resistance. The caseback featured for the first time the familiar Alpinist triple peak engraving and the stylized logo still used today. The dials of these early Alpinists are particularly prone to changing from their original white, through a light tan to almost an ochre color. Expect to pay around $800 for a good example. 1963
If you were born in 1963 then you share your birth year with the Seiko 5 line of watches. The 5 was a reference to the number of design principles Seiko felt important enough to embody within a dedicated brand: water resistance, shock resistance, automatic winding, day-date display and a crown at 4 oclock. The now-familiar shielded 5 branding was first applied to watches from the existing Sportsmatic line modified to include the new qualities necessary for a Seiko 5. Good examples are not difficult to find below $200.
1963 also saw the introduction of a second generation Grand Seiko, the manually wound, 35 jewel 43999 self-certified Chronometer. This short-lived caliber 430-powered watch was produced for two years only and was the last use of a low beat 18,000bph movement by the Suwa factory for a Grand Seiko. Featuring bold slab-sided lugs, it was the first Grand Seiko to incorporate some of Taro Tanakas Grammar of Design principles. The 1963 model is sometimes called the 57GS since it looks identical to its more common successor but technically, its movement was not given that designation in 1963. Examples are priced at around $1500. 1964
1964 was a very important year for Seiko both at home and abroad. The Tokyo Olympics took place with Seiko as the official timekeeper raising brand exposure around the world. It was at these games that photo-finish technology made its first appearance. The Tokyo Olympics were also the first time that a quartz digital timer was used in competition, again supplied by Seiko and developed the previous year. Due to these advances in timing technology, 1964 was the first year the IAAF recognised and judged athletic performance results measured to 1/100th of a second rather than 1/10.
In honor of this prestigious event, Seiko launched its first chronograph, the 45899 Crown Chronograph, in 1964. The design still had some semblance of dressy formality with its black and white appearance just like the earlier dive watches and Alpinists. Dials came in silver and black. The chronograph function provided only elapsed seconds, so an externally rotated, black bakelite bezel was used for recording elapsed minutes. A single start-stop-reset pusher is provided at 2 oclock. The caseback is engraved with the Olympic torch. A similar looking 5717-8990 chronograph was produced with silver dial and bezel without the Olympic connection and can be found at a lower price than the $2000-$3000 the Olympic version currently commands.
Grand Seiko introduced a third generation watch in 1964 in the form of the Self-Dater. Visually identical to the previous 43999, Seiko fitted an improved 57GS caliber beating at 19800bph. Expect to pay around $1200 for a good stainless steel 57GS. As with most vintage Grand Seikos, solid gold was a rarer, but available, option for those with additional budget. Platinum versions are significantly rarer. The 57GS would remain in production until 1969. 1965
One cannot consider Seiko watches from 1965 without mentioning the 62MAS. The model name was derived from the caliber 62 that powers it combined with a contraction of seikoMAtic Selfdater. The 62MAS was Seikos first professionally rated dive watch with large lume plots, 150m water resistance and a case shape clearly influenced by skin diver watches from other manufacturers. The model was extremely popular and laid the path for a continuous line of Seiko professional specification dive watches from then on. Recently, prices have gone up sharply for this model. Good examples are close to $5000 and even bad ones are over $2000.
Another interesting watch from 1965 is the Seikomatic 6245-9000. This watch is the only non-King Seiko, non-Grand Seiko to carry the Chronometer designation on its dial indicating that it met COSC standards for precision. While not labelled as a Grand Seiko, this Seikomatic was built to Grand Seiko standards and was even endowed with the gold lion medallion on the caseback, minus the Grand Seiko lettering.
The Seikomatic models were stalwarts of the Seiko lineup from 1960 to 1967. They do not grab the headlines like a Grand Seiko or 62MAS but their size and affordability makes them a great choice for a birth-year watch. The 6206 Seikomatic Weekdater, for example, blends a gorgeous, clean mid-century modern design with a contemporary 37mm size all enhanced by the minimal bezel. To add a little spice and quirkiness, search out a JDM version with Kanji date-wheel. The 1965 version also has the gyroscope on the dial carried over from the original 1959 Gyro Marvel and the script Seikomatic branding. In 1966 these two dial features would be dropped and replaced by the modern Seiko logotype, which today is still unchanged since its 1966 introduction. 1966
In July 1966, the Seikomatic Chronometer was renamed the 62GS and finally became the automatic Grand Seiko it had been masquerading as the year before. From a style perspective, the 62GS really represents a halfway house between the traditional watches of the early 60s and the watches that would come later in the decade. Smooth curves and an emphasis on all things round would slowly be replaced with straight lines, facets and edges as prescribed in Taro Tanakas Grammar of Design. As a temporal combination of the two styles, the timeless 62GS looks particularly modern today.
1966 was also the last year for the Sportsmatic line of affordable automatic watches. Since 1961, the Sportsmatic line had stood for affordable timekeeping with reliability and toughness that elevated them above the dress watches that came before. Almost all vintage Seiko watches have day and date complications, but if you are particularly drawn to the symmetric purity of a no date, 3-hander, search out a Seiko Sportsmatic 6601, since with neither day nor date windows, it presents a clean dial with perfect balance and symmetry. 1967
1967 was the year Seiko launched the 5740-8000 Lord Marvel which was as much a technical wonder as its name suggests. Slotting in under the Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines, it provided something that neither of those ranges did at the time: a hi-beat movement. The Lord Marvel was only the second watch in the world to beat at 36000 beats per hour, the first coming from the house of Girard Perregaux a year earlier.
The movement is not only technically advanced, it is also positively gorgeous to look at with brushing and finishing atypical of Seiko movements at this price point.
A watch with 36000bph or 10 beats per second results in an mesmerizingly smooth second hand. Mechanical Grand Seiko watches today use a 36000bph movement so to find an affordable, vintage watch with the same smooth sweep really is a horological miracle. The movement is not only technically advanced, it is also positively gorgeous to look at with brushing and finishing atypical of Seiko movements at this price point. There is no day or date complication here, nor even automatic winding; the focus of this watch is solely the sweep of its second hand. Do not be deterred by the seemingly small case diameter of 36mm. While that might seem too small for some, the lugs are quite long so it tends to wear larger. The Lord Marvel 36000 was produced, unchanged from 1967 to 1975. Good examples are $400 or less.
Grand Seiko also launched the manual wind 44GS in 1967 based on the earlier 1964 King Seiko 4420-9990 Chronometer. The 44GS has what we now associate as the archetypal styling for a Grand Seiko. The case is shaped strictly according to the rules of Tanakas Grammar of Design and exhibits the Zaratzu polished, faceted sides that Grand Seiko are so proud of today. It was also the first Grand Seiko from the Daini factory, which until then had produced King Seiko watches. One cannot understate the importance of the 44GS. When Seiko wanted to re-issue a vintage model to mark their 100th birthday in 2013, they chose the 44GS. Prices have risen steadily since the 2013 reissue. Expect to pay around $3000 for a good 44GS. Expensive yes, but a very important Grand Seiko historically. 1968
Seikos rate of development increased towards the end of the decade. New models and technical innovations came thick and fast. For 1968, the Suwa factory developed the 56XX automatic hi-beat movement for the King Seiko model line beating at 28800 vibrations per hour. These King Seiko watches arguably represent the most extreme interpretation of Tanakas design philosophy. The 5625-7000 King Seiko, in particular, features a central cylinder seemingly held under tension between two long Zaratsu-polished flanks that continue on to form the lugs but which simultaneously cut back under themselves at an acute angle to provide a very comfortable fit. For those who appreciate a daringly-styled dress watch, a 5625-7000 in good condition will not disappoint. Dials are susceptable to damage around the edge and the date quickset can be problematic so check both are satisfactory before buying.
The 5625-7000 King Seiko, in particular, features a central cylinder seemingly held under tension between two long Zaratsu-polished flanks that continue on to form the lugs but which simultaneously cut back under themselves at an acute angle to provide a very comfortable fit.
Meanwhile, the Daini factory was busy building 45GS Grand Seiko models in 1968. This model replaced the short-lived 44GS launched a year earlier and while visually similar externally, was very different internally. The 18000 bph movement of the 44GS was replaced with the much higher grade 56xx 36000 hi-beat movement that would eventually gain near-mythical status amongst Seiko enthusiasts and historians. Seiko submitted 103 watches with 56xx movements to the *Concourse de Geneve* in 1968 where they placed 4th through 10th with the top 3 positions taken by prototype Swiss quartz movements. This achievement cannot be overstated. This was a Seiko production watch that beat every other Swiss mechanical watch for accuracy in a Swiss chronometry test. The 45GS would last in production until 1973 and so represents a great birth year watch choice for those 5 years.
This achievement cannot be overstated. This was a Seiko production watch that beat every other Swiss mechanical watch for accuracy in a Swiss chronometry test. 1969
1969 was a momentous year for Seiko and this fact is reflected in the birth year watches suggested here. At the turn of 1969, the worlds watch manufacturers were in a race to develop the first automatic chronograph. While Zenith were first to present their El Primero prototype to the world on January 10th, it was Seiko that was the first to sell such a watch with the the 6139-6000 chronograph model. Domestic Japanese 6139s have been seen with February build dates, indicating that serial production of a mechanical chonograph had started soon after Zeniths announcement. Seiko never announced their prototype but one can imagine it may easily have been in ready in 1968.
If your birth year is 1969, I cannot think of a more momentous watch to track down than a 1969 Japanese 6139 chronograph. Production of the 6139 series lasted until late in 1978, so they are ideal for many birth year watches. Prices vary with quality, but budget for $1200 for a good early example that has been serviced and will be reliable and $800 for a later version. Avoid any rough 6139 below $500 and beware frankenwatches at all price points.
If your birthday was in December 1969, then we will finish this decades birth year watch roundup with one last, very special suggestion. At the end of the 1960s a force was coming from the east that would decimate the mechanical watch industry and go on to dominate for decades to come. Quartz technology was upon the world and on Christmas day, December 1969, the worlds first quartz watch, the Seiko Quartz Astron, was unveiled. Cases were solid gold and the hammered cushion-case styling is perhaps best described as an acquired taste. Officially called the 35SQ, it was expensive then and examples are still expensive now. For the committed collector, there is possibly no more influential watch produced in the 20th century to track down. 100 examples were sold before the end of 1969, at the equivalent of around $10,000 in todays money. Accuracy was a world-changing 5 seconds per month. 1960s Birth-Year Seikos Abound
While we have focussed on some of the more prominent Seiko watches from the 1960s, there were many more that I passed over for no reason other than to keep the length of this guide manageable. There were many more Seikomatics and Weekdaters produced than were mentioned here. There is the LordMatic range of watches that we did not mention, that started in 1967 and continued into the 1970s. These will feature in the next installment of this guide for that decade. There we more King Seikos and even a few Grand Seikos that I did not have the space to describe. Regardless, the caseback serial number is the key to dating any Seiko watch from the 1960s and to finding your birth year watch.
The 1960s saw many in the watch industry looking to capitalise on increased demand for automatic watches. In 1969, Seiko delivered by introducing what was arguably the worlds first automatic chronograph, the Seiko 6139. This article focuses on its earliest incarnations, the 6139-600X. A watch often called the Speed-Timer. Seiko printed the term Speed-Timer on many of its early chronographs destined for the Japanese market, indicating the more advanced features, such as a thirty-minute chronograph recorder, a day and date indicator, and a tachymeter scale. Production of the Seiko 6139 line up ended sometime in 1978, but are still readily available today. The 6139-600X series is quickly becoming very collectable pieces thanks to a combination of great design and storied history. The 600X has two big claims to fame, as both a contender for the worlds first automatic chronograph and as the first chronograph worn in space. THE WORLDS FIRST AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH
There is still debate in terms of which watch holds claim to the title of worlds first automatic chronograph, but really, it all boils down to which type of first you would consider most appropriate. Back in 1969, several big names were competing for the title of the worlds first automatic chronograph. The first watch company to lay claim to the title was Zenith, who introduced their first prototypes on January 10, 1969. The company even named their automatic chronograph the El Primero or The First in Spanish. The second contender was a collective of watchmakers, which could be termed the Chronomatic group, namely Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton-Buren. The companies created a mutually beneficial partnership and worked together in developing their automatic chronograph. The group laid claim to the title by introducing the Chronomatic prototypes on March 3, 1969, in a much-highlighted press event. The Chronomatic group was also the first to show several models of pre-production samples during the Basel Fair in April of 1969, a more impressive showing when compared to Zenith, who had fewer samples during the same event. Last but not least, Seiko lays claim to the title by being the first to start serial production of their 6139 Speed Timer in May 1969. These early watches were to be released to the Japanese market only. On the other hand, the Chronomatic group started production and release to the worlds retail markets in June or July of 1969, and Zeniths chronograph was released into the wider world market in October 1969. Some serial numbers of the earliest Seiko 6139s indicate a production date of March 1969 or even as early as February 1969, but it is unclear if these are samples or were the first ones intended for the Japanese market.
To sum it up, Zenith may have been the first to announce the development of the first automatic chronograph, but Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton-Buren were the first to release their automatic chronograph to major retail markets. However, when it comes to who first achieved serial production of the automatic chronograph, Seiko may have quietly beaten both, by releasing to the Japanese market in May 1969.
From left to right: Zenith ad from 1969; Heuer vintage ad; Seiko 1969 catalog THE FIRST CHRONOGRAPH IN SPACE
Col. Pogue wearing his Pogue Seiko
Image by Heritage Auctions
Aside from being the first automatic chronograph to achieve serial production, the Seiko 6139 was also the first automatic chronograph in space. This honor used to be bestowed upon Sinn 140 worn by a German astronaut named Reinhard Furrer during the Spacelab D1 mission in 1985. It was only in 2007 that it was established that Col. Pogue wore a 6139-6002 during the NASA Skylab 4 mission which took place in 1973. The official watch to be used for the Skylab 4 Mission was the Omega Speedmaster Professional, but it was only issued shortly before the actual launch. Needing a watch to use during his pre-flight training, Col. Pogue bought a 6139-6002 from PX at Ellington AFB Exchange. He utilized it to time engine burns during the course of his training, which lasted for more than six months. Due to his familiarity with the 6002, Col. Pogue launched into space on Nov. 16, 1973, with the piece tucked in his suit leg pocket. For the length of the mission, he wore it on his left arm alongside the NASA certified Omega Speedmaster on his other arm. As Col. Pogue had been using the 6002 during the course of his training and found it very handy, he did not attempt to get official approval from NASA to carry it with him into space. The astronaut, however, stated that he did not wear the piece during the EVA Spacewalk. The 6002 came back with Col. Pogue on February 8, 1974, when the mission ended. Since this fact was discovered, the yellow dial with the yellow indicator ring variation of the 6002 has been commonly termed as a Pogue. THE BEZELS
Aside from being the first automatic chronograph in space, the 6139-600X series also has another popular identifying factor, its outer bezel. Because of its red and blue color, the fixed outer bezel has been commonly referred to as the Pepsi bezel. The Pepsi bezel displays the tachymeter scale and has remained a consistent feature throughout the years of production of the 600X series.. The 600X also has a rotating indicator ring, or what is sometimes called an inner bezel. It is made of plastic with markings for 60 minutes. The most common colors can be seen in the Seiko catalog scan below. These are the blue indicator rings for the blue dials and yellow indicator rings for the yellow dials. Two other variations pop up from time to time. They are the white and black indicator rings.
1969 Seiko Catalog
In some instances, pieces can be found with white indicator rings; however, it is likely that these are simply yellow indicator rings that have discolored over time due to UV exposure. There is little evidence these white indicator rings are a genuine release and should probably be avoided. There is also a far less common black indicator ring, which can be usually found with a silver dial. There are some who doubt the authenticity of the black indicator ring, but enough evidence is present to suggest these were an official release.
A 6139-6000 silver dial 1969 and a 6139-6002 with yellow dial and black indicator ring
Left image by LINCE via RPTcom; Right image by hal0eight via Wrist Sushi and Vintage Time Australia THE DIALS
There are three different colours for the dials, yellow, blue, and silver with three variations for each colour. The markings on the dial, or lack thereof, depend on the year of its release. Since the series introduction, the label on the dial by the 12 oclock mark has always been Chronograph Automatic or just Automatic, for non-JDM(Japanese domestic market) models. As for the words on the 9 oclock mark, it reads Water 70M Proof from its release until the earlier part of 1970. These are commonly referred to as proof models or proof dials and tend to be more desirable to collectors.
After this time, the markings changed to Water 70M Resist. This shift was due to a law passed in 1968 that required manufacturers to change the markings on the watches they produce to water-resistant. The change across all manufacturers was not instantaneous. Seiko started employing this from 1970 and finished changing the markings on most of their models by 1971. Sometime during the latter part of 1972, the company also removed the marking stating Water 70M Resist but retained the marking Water Resistant on the case back.
From left to right: Proof dial, Resist dial, and dial with no markings Seiko Serial Number Model Number
The silver dialed variation is by far the rarest dial and is even more seldomly seen with a proof variation. There are only a few instances of photographed silver proof dials.
A silver Proofdial from 1969 and a silver Resist dial from 1971
Left image by LINCE via RPTcom
All in all, there are three dial colors with three variations, the proof, resist, and those with no markings, amounting to nine verified dial combinations.
Nine dial variations for the Seiko 613-600X throughout its production JDM DIAL VARIATIONS
In addition to the standard models listed above, watches that were intended for the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) only had a few additional markings. The markings on the dial would say Speed-Timer at the 12 oclock mark, and 5 Sports Water 70 Proof at the 9 oclock mark for those produced between 1969 and 1975. After this period, the JDM dials produced would bear the markings 5 Sports on the 12 oclock mark and Speed-Timer on the 9 oclock mark.
Early JDM 6139-6000 dial and New JDM 6139-600X dial THE CASE
The 6139-600X series comes in a stainless steel Screwback case with square corners that measures 40mm in diameter. The case back houses the model number and serial number for the piece. If you would like to determine the date of production, you only need to check the first two digits of the serial number which tells you the year and month of production respectively. (Quartzimodos Time Journal has a very helpful article about determining the date of production of a Seiko watch.)
The case back also features the markings Waterproof and Water Resistant, which is also a good indicator of its date of production. Those that contain the markings Waterproof were produced from 1969 to February of 1970. The pieces produced after this time would contain the markings Water Resist or Water Resistant due to Seiko complying with the mandate that watches manufacturers change their markings to reflect water resistant. It is estimated that the Water Resist case backs were used until April or May of 1970 before the company shifted to using Water Resistant markings on their case backs.
Left to right: Waterproof from 69, Water Resistant from 72, and a later version of the Water Resistant from 77.
Another variation that the case for the series went through is the notch on the side by the crown. The notched case was used for the series from 1969 to, it seems, the latter part of 1970 or early 1971. From then on until the end of its production, 6139s have featured the non-notched case. This is the reason why notched cases tend to be more desirable to most collectors.
Notched 6139-6000 from April 1969 and non-notched 6139-6005 from 1978
It is hard to pinpoint the exact date when the company transitioned to using the non-notched case as during the year of 1970, there were some pieces that had a notched case but featured the markings Water Resist on its case back.
Ad from 1970 (left photo), Water Resist notched case from March 1970 (middle and right photo)
Middle and right image by SeikoPsycho2 via SCWF
The working theory is that the company used the leftover notched cases from the time they stopped producing until finally running out in late 1970 or early 1971. A notched case Waterproof model from April 1970 also indicates that the left over case backs were also utilised. THE 6139 BRACELET
There are four known variations for the bracelets of the 6139-600X series. The first one being the H-link bracelet with straight ends, which was used on the 6139-600X series from its introduction until 1973. After this period, the H-link bracelet with tapered ends was used until the end of production. Another variation is what is commonly termed as the Stelux bracelet. It is unsure when this particular type was used, but is usually seen combined with the silver dial. The last variation is those seen for the versions intended for the Japanese market, or what is commonly referred to as JDM bracelets. This variation was used for the JDM models all throughout its production.
Straight H-link; Tapered H-link; Stelux bracelet; JDM bracelet
THE MOVEMENT
There were two types of movement used for the 6139s and are not specific to the 6139-600X series. The first one is the 6139A, which was used from 1969 to sometime in 1970 to 1971.he second one is the 6139B, which replaced the 6139A and was used until the end of production. Most of the differences can be found on the parts used for the 6139B series, such as the center chronograph wheel, which was made to be more robust. The B movement was also said to have a simplified chronograph bridge. Manufacturer: Seiko Seiko Movement: 6139A 6139B Picture Production Run: 1969 -1970 / 1971 1970 / 1971 -end of production Casing Diameter: 27 mm 27 mm Maximum Height: 6.65 mm 7.1 mm No. of Functional Jewels: 17J / 21J 17J / 21J Vibrations per hour: 21, 600 21, 600 Mainspring dimensions: L 43.5 mm
H 1.01mm
Thickness .10mm L 43.5 mm
H 1.01mm
Thickness .10mm Markings: 6139A 21 JEWELS /
6139A 17 JEWELS 6139B 21 JEWELS /
6139B 17 JEWELS Shock Resistant (Diashock): Yes Yes Automatic winding: Yes Yes Instant setting for day date: Yes Yes Bilingual for day of week: Yes Yes
There are 2 versions for each of the movements, 21J and 17J, signifying the number of jewels used for each one. The 21J movements can be only be found in the JDM version of the series, and the 17J movements can be found in the non-JDM versions.
The series has had several incarnations and variations throughout its years of production. THE EXECUTIONS
There are six possible references for the 600X series. These are: 6139-6000, 6139-6001, 6139-6002, 6139-6005, 6139-6007, and the 6139-6009. The differences in the last digit of the model numbers only signify its intended region of release. The 6139-6000 seem to correspond to those intended for the Japanese market. The 6139-6005 and 6139-6009 are those intended for North America.
All in all, with the six possible references, 15 possible dial variations for both JDM and non-JDM versions, 3 colors of inner rings, 2 cases, 3 case backs, 2 types of movements, and 4 possible bracelets, there is a huge array of possible combinations. However, bear in mind that only the JDM versions have the Speed-Timer dial, 21J movements, and the fourth type of bracelet, or what is commonly known as the JDM bracelet.
For the 6139-600X series, there could well over be 70 variations for the non-JDM versions and 18 for the JDM versions. Unfortunately, this figure cannot be ascertained as it is yet unclear which incarnations were available for each region the series was released. RECOMMENDED SEIKO 6139-600X
When trying to acquire a 6139-600X, it is typically best to look for models in as good a condition as possible. Good examples will hopefully require little or no restoration. It is best to always look for the signs of early productions, such as notched cases, the 6139A movement, and Proof or Resist markings. When looking at a piece, especially ones being sold online, its best to always look for pictures bearing the serial number to determine the year of production.
To help you get started, here are some popular variations of the series that you may want to ruminate on: THE PLACE TO START
When looking for a 6139-600X, try to look for one with a proof dial and a notched case. These are sure signs of early production and are more desirable for collectors. However, since these features are only available on early models, it is harder to find pieces that are in good condition. A great place to look is Ebay.com and sales corners on watch forum websites.
A Seiko 6139-6000 with proof dial and notched case from April 1969
Prices for those with notched cases and proof dials start at around $200 but vary greatly depending on its condition. Pieces that are in near mint condition can be had for $350 and up.
Tip: Try to also look for poorly advertised Seikos. Some posts are not very descriptive or may not even contain a model number as those who sell them may not be familiar with the series. The best clue would be the posted pictures. Like they say, patience is a virtue. SOMETHING DIFFERENT
Another variation that is sought after is the elusive silver-dialed 6139-600X. This particular incarnation is only usually found with a Resist dial or a dial with no markings. These silver dialed versions can also be found online and priced around $350.
6139-6002 silver dial with resist markings THE HIGH END
One of the rarest 6139-600X pieces that can be found are the early JDM or Speed-Timer models with the markings 5 Sports Water 70 Proof on the dial by the 9 oclock mark. These are very desirable pieces for collectors since these are the first ones produced by Seiko intended for the Japanese market. The early JDM versions are also very hard to acquire, and some are said to have serial numbers that indicate a production date of February or March 1969. Prices for this version start at $320 but can go up to $550, or maybe even more, depending on its condition.
6139-6000 Early JDM from 1969 THE GRAIL
Everyone has their own grail, but for us, it would be a mint example of the 6139-6002 worn by Col. Pogue during the NASA Mission, the first automatic chronograph in space. Col. Pogue bought the piece for $71 on June 13, 1972, and was auctioned off in 2008 for $5,975. The proceeds from the auction went to the Astronaut Scholarship Foundation.
6139-6002 worn by William Pogue during NASA Skylab 4 mission
Image by Heritage Auctions
Good examples of this watch are still readily available. As a collector you can can still find your own Pogue 6139-6002 without much trouble. A yellow dialled non-notched 6002 can still be bought today, some even in mint condition, but can fetch quite a price as it is very in demand. 6139-6002 with yellow dial and yellow indicator ring
Prices range from $450 up to $1000 for those in near mint. Nice examples but with small defects, such as discoloured rings and replaced bands, can be had for significantly less. Seiko Serial Id WHAT TO LOOK FOR AND WHAT TO AVOID?
When looking for a 6139-600X, remember that the series are decades old, and as such there are plenty of pieces out there that are franken or may have been modified. In the section below, we will outline common issues or aspects to look at when purchasing your own 6139-600X:
Dial and Bezels : Check for any sign of corrosion, modifications, and replacement parts.
*Remember that there are only a number of known combinations for the dials and indicator rings. Other colors may just be products of restorations or might be aftermarket parts. Specifically, watch out for pieces that have the white indicator ring as this is a sign that it is heavily faded or might have been repainted. Seiko Watch Models Identification
Aftermarket white indicator ring
*The outer bezel only comes in blue and red for these series and is fixed. There are sticker versions of the outer bezel available, so watch out for these when looking for a 600X to purchase.
*Watch out for any corrosion on the dial, especially on the sub-dial of the piece, as this is where it usually starts.
*Be careful of aftermarket dials when purchasing your piece. Some signs to watch out for are the marks on the sub dial register. These should touch the very edge of the sub register ring. Also, the lume on the dial should have a sharp edge and not a rounded one.
Left: Sub-dial marks do not come to the age and lume has rounded edges.
Right: The original dials markings/indicators for the sub-dial come to the very edge. The lume also has a sharper edge.
Bracelets : Watch out for any missing links on the bracelet of the 600X that you aim to purchase. Also, remember that these series usually come with the H-link straight/tapered style, the Stelux bracelet, and the JDM bracelet. Be wary of replacement bracelets, especially if you are keen on originality.
An aftermarket bracelet sold online
Case and Movement : Be on the lookout for corrosion in the case and movement of the 600X you intend to purchase. Also, ensure that the markings, model, and serial number of the case are consistent with the other parts of the piece.
Stem, Crown, and Gaskets : Be wary of aftermarket or reproduction stems as this can cause damage to the movement of the piece. The gaskets (black rubber rings) may also need to be replaced. These can become sticky through time and might also affect the water-resistance of the piece.
A genuine stem and crown for a 6139-600X (Left) and an aftermarket stem and crown with gasket (Right)
Left image by hal0eight via Wrist Sushi and Vintage Time Australia
For more information regarding the variations and buying Seiko 6139s, please also visitHOW TO BUY A SEIKO 6139-600x CHRONOGRAPH A Collectors Buying Guide by Ty Maitland, 1970s Seiko 6139-600X Chronograph Variations Review by SeikoPsycho2 from watchuseek, and The Definitive 6139-600x Buyers Guide thread from the Wrist Sushi forum.
From The Spring Bar Store:
References:
Jeffrey Stein, Project 99-The Race to Develop the Worlds First Automatic Chronograph, Online guide article, 2008
The Seikoholics Forums users Ninja01 and StartSomething, JDM Speedtimer 6138/6139 Variant Question, Forum post, 2012
Network54 user Kelly M. Rayburn, My 6139-6005 on Stelux bracelet. . ., Forum post, 2009
SCWF users SeikoPsycho2, aladin_sane, and haloeight, Need some 6139 expertise!, Forum post, 2012
Wrist Sushi users seikoholic and hal0eight, Nothing like some documentation look for the 6139-6000, Forum post, 2014
Ranfft Watches, Seiko 6139A and Seiko 6139B,Auction site,(n.d)
SCWF user haloeight, Re: Pogue inner bezel question, Forum post, 2011
Network54 user Isthmus, unresolved mystery about 6139 resist dial ?, Forum post, 2008
Evan Yeung, Revisiting An Icon The Seiko Speedtimer, Online magazine article, 2012
Reddit user Seikoholic, [Seiko 6139-6005 Resist] aka Pogue 80+ days in orbit, first automatic chronograph in space, and the reason that I started collecting Seikos, Reddit post, 2013
Felix Scholz, IN-DEPTH: Your Vintage Seiko Chronograph Buying Guide, Online magazine article, 2012
Watchuseek user SeikoPsycho2, 1970s Seiko 6139-600X Chronograph Variations Review, Forum post, 2009
Watchuseek user SeikoPsycho2 6139-60XX How to spot an Aftermarket Dial, Forum post, 2014
Quartzimodo Admin, How to tell when your Seiko watch was made (Part 1), Blog post, 2010
Arne Rasmussen, Seiko 6139 (Skylab 4 in 1973), Blog post, 2013
Timezone.com user rileyn p I dont know how else it can be said, Forum post, 2008
James Lamdin, The Colonel Pogue Seiko 6139. DREAMCHRONO, Blog post, 2013
Chris Lang My First Mechanical Chronograph is the Worlds First Automatic Chronograph: Seiko 6139, Blog post, 2014
SCWF user Librarian2, Seiko Calibers Technical/Repair Manuals, Forum post, 2010
Watchuseek user Isthmus. Difference Between Water Proof Water Resist., Forum post, 2008
Ty Maitland reposted by Watchuseek user Isthmus, HOW TO BUY A SEIKO 6139-600x CHRONOGRAPH A Collectors Buying Guide, Forum post, 2008
SCWF user Isthmus, SEIKO VINTAGE CATALOGS 1960s 1980s, Forum post, 2011
Matt Boston, Top 10 Technically Important Mechanical Wrist Watches, Blog post, 2013
Blake Buettner, Just Because: Seiko 6139, The Other First Automatic Chronograph, Online magazine article, 2011
Don, The Rarest Chronograph Movement of Seiko ca.60s/70s, Blog post, 2010
Watch wiki, Seiko 6139, Web encyclopedia, 2014
WristSushi user hal0eight, The Definitive 6139-600x Buyers Guide, Forum post, 2014
SCWF user Spencer PK, Re: History of the 6139 Photo Database Accurate?, Forum post, 2012
Network54 user Cobrajet25, According to Seiko at least, there is no difference between these watches., Forum post, 2004
SCWF users cobrajet25 and LINCE, 6139-600x silver-dialed models, Forum post, 2011
Network54 user Cobrajet25, Yes, it is. The really early ones, Forum post, 2005
SCWF users martback and SeikoPsycho2, 6139-600X dating and identification clues ?, Forum post, 2013
Network54 user swedefreak and Cobrajet25, 6139-600X variations, Forum post, 2009
SCWF user Spencer PK, Re: 6139- Movement: 17 vs 21 Jewels, Forum post, 2013
SCWF user Spencer PK, Re: 6139A vs 6139B parts interchange, Forum post, 2010
SCWF user Spencer PK, Re: A question for the 6139-600X experts., Forum post, 2013
Watchuseek user SeikoPsycho2, Re: Does this Speedtimer look original?, Forum post, 2011
SCWF user cobrajet25, Re: The gold-dialed 6139-600x with a black indicator ring any proof, ever?, Forum post, 2012
SCWF user Daver, Seiko 6139B mainspring, Forum post, 2014
Network 54 user Don, Right there in the search engine. For example:, Forum post, 2008
SCWF users cobrajet25 and Technoman, 6139 dial variations relative rarities?, Forum post, 2010
Network54 user Cobrajet25, Not qutefrom what I have seen., Forum post, 2009
Network 54 users Cobrajet25 and tyes, Earliest 6139 found 93509X = Mar 1969, Forum post, 2008
Network54 user Cobrajet25, Your dial is fine, Forum post, 2008 You Might Also Like Popular Posts
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